The Gilded Age - America's Golden Period

HBO describes the nine-part series where "the story begins in 1882 — introducing young Marian Brook, the orphaned daughter of a Union general, who moves into the New York City home of her thoroughly old money aunts Agnes van Rhijn and Ada Brook. Accompanied by Peggy Scott, an accomplished African-American woman, Marian inadvertently becomes enmeshed in a social war between one of her aunts, a scion of the old money set, and her stupendously rich neighbors, a ruthless railroad tycoon and his ambitious wife, George and Bertha Russell."

​A period in time marked by great wealth, accumulated by a very few people. People who became not only well-known for their business accomplishments, but their lavish spending. Many became the titans of their industries and their names and legacies remain well-known to this day. Names like Vanderbilt, Carnegie and Astor.

The term 'Gilded Age' comes from a book title by popular American author Mark Twain, who, along with Charles Dudley Warner, referring to the era as a 'Gilded Age.' It was not only a reference to all of the wealth being accumulated by a celebrated few, but the literal gilding which seemed to cover so much of the design, furnishings and personal baubles which came to highlight and define that golden age in history.

And golden it was!  It was a time where gilding was a feature throughout houses and the dining table.  There was no expense spared for entertaining the famous, royalty, society, acquaintances, friends and family.  This was the era where the table was carefully arranged with brilliant crystals and cut glass, twinkling together with gilded silverware, set upon fine linens and accompanied by bright floral arrangements.
 
The United States had been underwritten by major industrial growth. Americans especially came into unbelievable wealth and conjured up every sort of implement possible to make life and dining a spectacular show and have society tongues wagging… in the right way!
 
What did the Gilded Age mean in terms of etiquette?  Etiquette expanded itself to new modern devices of the table, transport and social scenes.  It was where old forms of etiquette were adapted or thrown out due to the new modern industrial age and new rising social scenes of the western world.

​THE GILDED AGE TABLE
What would those of the Gilded Age want on their table?  Everything imaginable! Let’s take a look……What would the Gilded Age table have seen?  Figure 1 displays a few items that we still see today, butter spreader, children's flatware minus a food pusher.  Children were encouraged to eat correctly at the table and cutlery was especially made.  The food pusher was an item made for children, even up till 1940-1950's.  The butter knife has slowly disappeared and today we would use knives straight from the butchers block. 

Interestingly the jelly knife is featured in this catalogue.  This type of jelly knife would most probably refer to sweet gelatin dessert.  The first recorded jelly dessert was in the 18th century book The Art of Cookery by Hannah Glasse.  Jelly was found sandwiched between layers of the trifle, a delectable sweet table pleasure.  

Figure 2 is the crème de la crème of the Gilded Age.  These flatware or serving ware was made for every dish or food that was eaten by those of the time.  You are probably wondering why so many different flatware?  Those that had money would purchase such products as a display of wealth and the etiquette of the day was that it was a no-no to touch food with your fingers.  The flatware featured are as follows: lettuce spoon and fork, oyster fork, small olive spoon and fork, olive fork and spoon.  How did the Gilded Age table look like with all these implements on it?

Figure 1 | Maura Graber Etiquette Collection

​Figure 2 | Maura Graber Etiquette Collection

GILDED AGE PARTY & EVENTS
The Gilded Age was about showing your new found wealth and those who maintained 'old money' also stepped out to let others they were still there.  One of the most famous events was noted in the daily paper held at the Astor's 5th Avenue 'double' residence.  300 guests were invited who all were "prominent representatives of New York society".   Their invitations noted that they must attend in 'full dress'.  What did this mean?

Full dress referred to women dressing in evening gowns with jewellery ordered and shipped from Cartier or Bvlgari via Europe.  Wearing together with exotic perfumes from the Orient, highly coiffured hairstyles, silk gloves and an ornate purse.  Most likely women would make preparations in getting ready, an all day event with the help of staff.  The men would dress in black dress coats with white vest and cravat with accessories such as white gloves, top hat and walking cane.

What was served at the Astor's magnificent ball?  Using Mrs Astors "solid silver table service" a midnight supper menu was found to serve the following items: ​

​Consommé à la Princesse 
Térapène
Filet de boeuf aux champignons frais et truffes
Canard canvasback rôti
Salade de céleri et laitue
Sandwiches assortis
Glaces de fantaisies
Biscuit glacé biscuit Tortoni
Gâteaux assortis
Gelée macédoine 
Charlotte Parisienne
Fruits 
Bonbons
Café Champagne Claret Cup Lemonade Poland water

​Clear broth soup
North American turtle soup
Beef with champignon mushrooms and truffles
Roast Canvasback duck
Celery and lettuce salad
Assorted sandwiches
Ice-cream based recipe
Ice-cream with crumbled biscuit and fruit
Assorted cakes
Fruit salad jelly
Cream sponge finger cake
Assorted fruits
Assorted sweets and nuts
Assorted beveridge's including coffee, champagne, claret, lemonade and water imported from Poland

With the help of Larousse Gastronomique, I have interpreted the dishes that this extravaganza would have served during the early hours of the morning.  Why would a French written menu appear in New York?  The handwritten menu featured in Europe in royal houses such as King Louis XIV, which still survives today.  This menu was written in 1757 where guests were entertained by the king at Château de Choisy, it was placed on the table revealing 4 courses and dessert.  This tradition has continued on till today,  interesting, Queen Elizabeth has her menus written in French for everyday dining and state events.

​GILDED AGE CLOTHING
​The Gilded Age was an age where men, children and women especially wore many layers of garments that flowed elegantly to the floor. Women styles encouraged the use of brightly coloured materials and fabrics with waist altering corsets to 'promote the perfect shape' for the time.  Men's fashion garnered the creation of many different suits, hats and accessories.  It was a must for those invited, to wear the appropriate clothing for events such as high tea, garden parties, luncheons and formal dining events.  Everyone was expected to wear an array of outfits suiting the occasion and styles of the season.  Those fortunate to have the backing of wealth, brought with them an assistant who would act as a dresser and stylist, changing dresses, shoes, accessory's, hat's and hairstyles changes during the day to evening, perhaps they even had a Louis Vuitton trunk with these necessary items.

Most notably of the gilded age fashions was the use of the corsets and bodices.  Corsets were made from silk, lace and strong cotton material that had whale bone sewn into it which helped females to achieve the 'figure 8' look.  The bodice was tightly laced together, with the help of her assistant and always accompanied a dress, no matter the occasion.  The style of the time was called the 'princess line' which originated with Princess of Wales, Princess Alexandra.  This style was also called French-dart-line dress which had long panels without a join or separated at the waist.  These long seams helped to give its wearer a slimline appearance showing off the 'model' waist together with long sleeves and high neckline.

Part of the gilded age women's ensemble was to wear cape or otherwise known as a dolman-style-mantle.  This allowed for warmth in cool climates and worn inside for short periods of time during a visit.  The cape also kept a person warm in a carriage and easy to manoeuvre when getting in and out and up and down stairs.

Hat's was a complimentary must!  Hat's came in all sort of shapes, sizes and designs.  Hats could have come trimmed with lace, feathers, satin or velvet ribbons.  The wearing of hat continued too the advent of second world war.

Men's style was also as elaborate as women and children's wear.  It was popular to wear a morning or frock coat along with a top hat.  Those that were middle class wore sack coat which paired with a bowler hat.  Later on during the gilded age men favoured single-breasted suits and gracing evening events was the tuxedo.

The invention of the tuxedo is a tale of two cities.  The first story was said to have originated from Tuxedo Park, an upstate New York country playground for Manhattan's wealthiest elite.  The second story was that in 1865, King Edward VII commissioned a Savile Row tailor - Henry Poole & Co., to tailor a dinner suit for informal occasions, he would have with family and friends, known to the British as a 'dinner jacket' and the the Americans 'tuxedo'.  It was where the tailcoat lost it tail and became a jacket.

Later in the gilded age, due to good weather, nature and money spent on sprawling estates, women entertained outside whether it be garden parties, trying 'modern' inventions such as the bicycle, or participating in acceptable games such as badminton, golf, tennis, croquet or swimming.  Children were encouraged to stay outdoors as it was deemed 'good for ones health'.  New clothing was created to accommodate new ventures such as athletic wear and bathing costumes.

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